Camp 2 – Middle Gobi, Mandalgovi

Continued on from last post, I am now writing from the only hotel available to us in the capital town that is Middle Gobi Desert. We contemplated going on to camp but as its a further hundred kilometers from here the plan was to stop off again at a market and pick up those little things we realize we need from our first night out yesterday.

The drive out here was through an exceptional landscape of rocky outcros, sand dunes, winter ger camps and camels. We spotted a small herd of gazelle grazing in the distance. Many horses and goat herds.


There is a sense I need to write quickly for tomorrow I will once more be away from wifi and computer battery points.

On arrival in the town we decided we would perhaps stay the night because a shower would be a good thing too and we could regroup tomorrow.

Firstly, the town is like a large outskirts of UB with many ger camps and rickety fences on way into town. I forgot to mention the first class bitchumen highway we linked up with and rode into town. Once the bichumen met the local road it stopped and for a kilometer into town the road was broken into lumps of concrete… Surely the new road could have resurfaced all the way into town.

The first hotel we stopped at a man came to our car and said it was closed. Only the new 4×4 vehicles n the drive gave away it was used by a political party. The cars were carrying political posters. Same story in every hotel. Until we found this small one.

I have no idea what the name is or that it even was a hotel but Tugsoo and Unench recognized it as one. Tugsoo went inside to negotiate beds for the night and soon reappeared to say that there was a small room with two beds only; we could do same as last night and share room and boys sleep on the floor. There is nothing else so agreed, and anyway it is cheaper than yesterday’s ger… And there would be a Beth or shower we can use. She also added a man would fix the plumbing, there is a toilet with our room.

Ok, set for the night we decided to look around for perhaps a better hotel and find the market. Nothing appeared so made our way back to the booked room. Unench was having some difficulty depositing the gear stick out of 4×4. While he and Mervyn stood in the car park reading the car manual, well, Unench read because it was written in Mongol they noticed just cams from the front tire a steel reinforcing rod sticking out of the ground ready to pierce the wheel. So Unench moved the car back a but to avoid the rod.

A little while later a small white car with two men inside attempted to turn into the space between Unench and the car parked next to us. He nudged the tow bar. Twice in two day!! I was standing with Mervyn by now and we shouted and indicated to the man to reverse. He looked at us with glazed eyes and pushed forward more, nudging the tail bar almost completely off. Now the tail bar was hanging from the side. The men In the car were clearly vodka affected. They gave a peace sign and didt seem to know what to do. Several people were watching. The man managed to just miss another vehicle as he reversed back into the road and tried to move into another car park. He obviously wanted to come into this hotel.

By now several people including the hotel staff had gathered and the police were called. We took down the number plate. No one seemed to be interested in swapping names and addresses or anything.

Eventually the local police arrived and by now quite a crowd had gathered around. I took some photographs with the canon camera and was told to stop taking them.

Mervyn and retired to sit in the car while the Morgan’s sorted out the problem, clearly we were just in the way, though we were the main witnesses. After theodicy took to the measuring of the car park with a long tape it appeared as if this was about to become a major event.

After further discussions and the arrival of the chief policeman arrived the who scenario moved to the police station.

The poor culprit was still standing around looking rather bewildered. Forgot to mention he had also left the scene and taken us drunk colleague away and returned to the car park where a man from the hotel reached into his car and removed the keys. He continued to deny touching Unench’s car.

The police drove his car to the police station and impounded it into a locked yard. We were told to say in the car while Unench and Tugsoo went into the police station.

The outcome is that the man would loose s license and spend the day in the cell. I understand it is immediate loss of license if caught drinking under the influence of alcohol.


Then they announced they would take the car to the repair shop and have it repaired immediately. We are to stay in the hotel. That seemed ok, though Mervyn offered to go and et Tugsoo have a rest but she wanted to go. That left Mervyn and I to have shower and relax and wait till they came back.

We carried bags upstairs to our small room. Tiny room really. There was a man with his head inside the ensure fixing the loo who didn’t seem to mind us in the room. Ok so far. Until we asked if there was shower or bathroom somewhere. No. Not. Hmm. No shower, no bath. I took out my Mongolian language book and pointed to bath and shower. He seemed pretty sure the answer was still no. Ok then, it’s a wash in the hand basin. We could consider ourselves lucky to have a loo and a wash basin as we are in the middle of the Gobi desert. Get it into perspective, just because there is bichumen ans brick walls… The water of course is cold. And we are laughing because still because this is Mongolia. What a thrill for us to be here in the middle of the Gobi, a place of so many unrealized dreams. What to complain about, I am sitting on the bench that is called a bed, I have electricity, glass between me and the cold wind and wet carpet on the floor. Life is pretty good. We await the next chapter…





Camp 1 – Ulaanbaatar to Tuv Borjigon

Finally we left the chaos and rough charm of Ulaanbaatar for the countryside. Tugsoo, Unench, Mervyn and me. We packed Unench’s 1998 Prado with all we thought we would need for a couple of weeks in the Gobi Desert. Like any city, it takes a long time to get out of the thick traffic and we had on the way only one small accident. A young woman bumped into our car and we became one of the many road blocks to cause more Mongolian chaos as Tugsoo and Unench sorted out the issue. Rather than worry about car insurance issues the problem was solved with the woman handing over 20,000 Tg for the damage. On closer inspection the damage could be wiped off with a steel cloth later.

Another stop along the way at a wholesale grocery shop for more supplies of bottled water and packets of Mongolian breakfast biscuits and food.

The road slowly cleared of traffic and we soon found ourselves emerging into the light of the hills, becoming tinged with green from the recent rain. It is clear the country is in need or more rain as the sparse vegetation tries to thicken.

We were driving south west toward the Gobi and beside up in the north west were thick black striking clouds of which I took many photographs. Unench received a phone call from the city saying heavy rain and flooding was beginning in UB and we were all quietly pleased to have got out in time.

Then the wind started.

We left the bitumen road after an hour or so and took instructions on where next to go. It turned out we had to follow a sandy track to the south that was barely a track. This being the main route to the Gobi. Many times we had to make quick decisions on which fork of the track to take as there were no sign posts. Then the wind picked up more and we could still the the dark deep grey clouds to the right of the car now.

The landscape changed to something more similar to the Australian outback, small shrubs and tall grasses similar to our spinifix grass though without the thorns. It is very beautiful. Small yellow flowering throbs began to appear and mauve ground creepers interspersed with a deep purple ground hugging iris only inches tall.

The sky was wild, partly blue sky and thick white cloud emerging into the grey rain steamed sky behind us. Then appeared a brown shadow on the horizon suspiciously like a dust storm. T was not long before the whirling dance of the brown streaked reached us and become one thick brown dusk storm. I managed to get out of the car and take some photographs as it came so quickly upon us, blurring out the near distance to an night sky. What to do. All we could do was keep driving on and hope soon we would come out of it.

It must have been an hour and a half before the wind dropped a little and we were again driving in a clear sky. There were many tracks to follow and the decisions were not definite. Eventually we decided to keep mostly to the telegraph line as a new one had been recently constructed across the landscape. It was so new that the gravel holding up the poles was still fresh and a clear cross indentation was marked on the ground where the poles were held down.

Perhaps following the power lines was not necessarily the best decision. We drove up and down and round and around the rocky poles. We would see many other tracks criss crossing the landscape. Our thinking was, even with the map and compass that the power lines must end up in the Govi-ugtaal. And then we thought about all of the mining in the Gobi. We had been track crossing for many hours and finally, from the top of a rocky ridge we could see a city in the far distance. We had almost given up trying to count kilometers on the road because we took into account the extra length and slow travel of the power line track. Now we could see a larger road which we followed for a while while keeping the lines in sight. To our right on another ridge we could also see an older line but the new ones were our current guide.

Some rough time later, before is was a white city. Only thing is, as we approached the white city of new buildings we could see a razor fence. And then the equipment and gets and containers of a mining camp! It is very good that we are traveling in summer light and that we would still have several hours of twilight.

Enquiring at the camp the whereabouts of the sum we were looking for we basically had to head north again.

Back on the track Unench started back north, then somewhere the advice had also been follow the main road. Well out here there is not much of anything you could call a main road. Unench turned around and decided he would find it and went back to the other side of the camp. And then Mervyn was worried we were going in quite the wrong direction as according to the map if we were where we thought we were we would miss the town completely.

So back around we swung and what an interesting beginning to our first day in the Gobi. Lost on. The first track! At least we have water and food. Out here there is no helicopter to come and search. You will basically be found by a nomad or miner, or die.

At one stop we all needed to pee. It was quite hilarious and we had a sense of humor intact as even the girls realized the length they could pee as the wind was so strong the urine never ht the ground but was sprayed for meters in front. Lesson to remember, always pee into the direction the wind is blowing.

After the wind settled a little the rain came. Not a lot, just a gentle spraying on the dusty windows.

With driving and track crossings we did finally come to a couple of gers and asked the man the directions to the sum. And with an hour or so of light left we got to the town.

No any hotel working here we were told. Better keep going to the camp. Hmm, we still had a good one hour left of light. I was a little unsure of this wisdoms but off we went again passing herds of cattle, horses and goats. Would have loved to stop and take more photographs but the light was beating us.

Passed a magnificent sunset and several rainbows. The countryside is wide Ong and looking spectacular, particularly I the last of the evenings ought.

And then before us was the jagged rocky horizon of a Tolkien landscapes. They are the hills we were heading for. It seemed to take forever now and the hills moving further away everytime we glimpsed them over a ridge,

Eventually we were beside them and able to turn left towards where the camp had been described to be.

Some time later we were indeed driving through the wildest landscapes of rock formations. In our country these formations would be referred to as the devils marbles, but only twice as wild. Ridge after ridge mugged out the most extraordinary formations of rocks piled upon each other and then across each other and more and more of these amazing things.

And tracks coming and going and amazingly a sign that read in Mongolian camp 9 kilometers and an arrow. We followed this and agan came across many choices of which way and the light was running out. Then another sign and wonderfully a light with several gers huddled together.

We had found the camp!!

With what light we had left we pulled up at the camp. It was now freezing outside, down to 9celcious but the wind chill was about zero. A lot of haggling about prices and where and what we could do. There were basic gers and this time as we were all looking forward to light the ger stove we were told no stove. No hot water, no meals. Just the ger and the most expensive price we have ever paid for ger. We opted to share one ger two beds and mattresses to be brought in for the floor.

Fortunately we had bought an extra gas stove on route and had plenty to water and food to look after ourselves. It was cold. No fire in the ger and the first one had no light either. And we were given the one furtherest from the ablution block. Was that for foreign tourists, I wondered. Wow, there may have been no hot water but at least the toilets and wash room was clean with flushing toilets. Considering where we were, out here in middle Gobi it is some knd of a feat to have any kind of accommodation and beds to sleep in.

After bringing in our gear from the car we set about a simple dinner of noodles cooked on our gas stove and cups of tea and soon to bed and a sleep of interesting dreams. I had a big dream about my mother.

Then it began to rain, just a little at first and then heavy downpour. It was quite something listening to the dull thud of heavy raindrops in the canvas outer cover of the felt ger. I hoped for all that the water would not seem through the floor and Lino cracks upon which Unench and Mervyn were sleeping.

Somewhere during the night it got very cold. That’s a lot more cold than when we had arrived. I was sleeping inside my warm sleeping bag and cosy, but my face and head was so cold I had to pull it over my head.

The light filter through sometime early morning and I knew it was morning, but very early so stayed in bed. Mervyn had already risen from s floor bed and put the kettle on to make us all a cups.
Over our breakfast of tea and brewed coffee with Mongolian cakes we decided to pack up and move on after looking around. The wind had set up a gale and there was no way we would be able to effectively draw today in the landscape.

Well, once we had paid the hostess and packed the vehicle we set about exploring this amazing landscape.

Stunning, spectacular and this time perhaps just once I could use that awful word, awesome. This landscape we had woken into was and endless pile of rocks and mountains and boulders spewed up by the earth in some ancient catastrophe millions of years ago. Australia has little piles of the formations but I have never seen the grandeur of this landscape and it was worth all the cold of last night to be here. Still didn’t make it any easier for painting so we spend the morning and day walking around and taking many photographs do where we were.

Tugsoo had told us in the morning in ancient times these mountains are considered sacred and that many dreams a common.

There are all kinds of figures and animals reconstructed in this landscape.


The photographs I have here do not do the landscape justice because my iPhone camera was flat and all of my good images are in the canon camera. I will try to post other photographs later.